The Arcane Dragonry

16th December 2016

Almost there!

Bitumen of Judea. Oh, how I love the stuff. It smells lovely and gives a rich brown wash to things that you can’t just compare to anything else. It’s oil-based, so normally you have a reasonable amount of time to wipe it off  until it looks nice. It’s a bit trickier when it’s a large piece like these dragon heads I make though. I ran into some trouble on one of the sides and I had to redo it. Being oil-based, I had to wait for about two days for it to proceed. It normally takes less time, but it’s winter and Anachromie sits on a cold and non-ventilated room. Once it looked good enough and it was perfectly dry, I gave her some nice highlights by dry-brushing, and finally, gave it a matt coat of varnish. I really like how the black wash made it look so “antique”, almost vintage. It’s quite appropriate too, since bronze dragons are the keepers of the sands of time!

Anyway, now everything’s all dried up and ready for the ultimate beard grooming session! I’ll leave you with some pictures of our favourite bearded lady while I was applying the black wash and the finished result. Regrettably though, it took a lot of effort to take a decent picture of her now. The metallic paint reflects a lot of light, and the varnish doesn’t help. I had to tweak the contrast so you could appreciate it without any weird glares and burns, and because of this, it looks a bit flat and plain. Hopefully it won’t be too hard to take the perfect final pictures after the beard is ready.

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9th December 2016

Oooo! Shiny!

THE BEARD IS DONE! My brain started to hurt from thinking about how to proceed with the beard for so long. I really couldn’t find a solution that would work and look good at the same time. But I did in the end and I bring you proof! Prepare yourself, because this is a picture-heavy post. But before showing you the beard, here you have a picture of Anachromie with another layer of paint. It’s still not finished and it needs black washing, but that will have to wait til tomorrow.

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So, remember how I prepared the white wig? You can find it on this post if you missed it. What I did was cut off half of the seam line. I could do this safely only because I literally bathed the whole seam on PVA glue, otherwise the hairs would just fall off. I did this so the beard would look as natural as possible, with a smooth and seamless transition between skin/scales and beard. Tough stuff though.

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Once the hot glue gun was good to go, I calculated where the middle point of the beard would be, then I started gluing the hair strands to the chin in a spiral.

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I put extra glue in the crevices of the chin so it would be a bit smoother. The trick is to dip your finger in cold water, and while the glue is still hot, press it down and shape it to your convenience. I kept on gluing hair in a spiral until I was done. I used a length of about 70cm in total (not the length of the hair itself, I mean the strips).

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As you can see above, the result was a very nice full beard. But now I had to deal with that unsightly hot glue. And of course, you can’t just paint it because acrylics don’t stick to it that well and it looks awful in any case. I needed something that would blend into both the skin/scales AND the beard. So I decided to experiment with something quite unconventional that I had never used on any piece of art: surgical tape! This stuff. In case you’ve never heard of it, it’s basically a very thin paper-like tape that’s very flexible, porous and you just put on your skin when you want to avoid an infection on a wound. The thing with this tape is that the glue is extremely sticky and sort of waterproof (it doesn’t fall off your skin even after a shower). And since it’s so thin and paper-like, I thought it would be a good thing to use. After covering the seams and all of the hot glue, I added a few layers of tissue paper. I made it really damp to the point that it broke apart, and smudged it into the strands of beard hair.

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It didn’t take too long to dry. I painted the whole thing ochre and then dry-brushed both skin and beard with raw umber until it looked natural. The transition doesn’t look as smooth as I would like (the tissue paper is a bit too wrinkly compared to the smoothness of the cotton fabric), but it’s acceptable. Now I just need to black wash it and it will be ready! I’d love to hear opinions on the beard. Find me on Facebook or Twitter and let me know, or just leave a comment of course.

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9th December 2016

Houston…

So, last night I was giving Anachromie her first coat of paint, when a not-so-unexpected problem happened. In case you don’t know or remember, the eyes for this dragon were drawn and painted by hand with markers (it’s all explained with pictures in this post). Even though they were proper markers, As soon as the water penetrated the fabric while painting with acrylics, the ink raaaan wild! Well, maybe not that wild, but it did run. So basically, I had to perform eye surgery after the paint dried to remove the eyes and replace them.

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The new eyes look sooo much better than the old ones, I’m actually glad that they got messed up. Now, to prevent the same tragedy from striking again, I laminated the paper with plastic, glued it to the cabochons (glass domes) and sealed the sides used something that I very rarely use but that proved great for the task. I’m talking about Mod Podge’s Dimensional Magic. It’s a thick liquid that dries up to look like glass, pretty much like liquid clear resin. I think some clear nail polish could have done the job as well… maybe. I need to test that. But anyway! The eyes are now fixed and look fantastic!

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7th December 2016

Coconut Chpz!

First of all, apologies for the lack of proper white balance on the pictures below. Yes, you will notice. Sooo, anyway, down below you’ll be able to see the dried “fake” chin (it’s very rigid now), and also the glue on the hair strips dried up. It feels very secure now and they’re not losing hairs anymore, so I went ahead and gave all of the strips a good combing. To dye the hair I just used very diluted acrylics and a hard brush. The trick is to dye them in the front and then the back. If you don’t dye both sides, chances are there will be bits of hair that will stay white here and there. It’s very important to dilute the paint quite a lot too, if it’s too concentrated, the hair will just stick together. If this happens to you, don’t worry, just give it a quick rinse with warm water under the tap and remove the excess paint. It should be alright when it dries!

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Above (on the left) you can see what the hair looked like when it dried. On the right is what it looked like after combing it. And finally, below you can see all of the hair I prepared dried and brushed. So silky and smooth! I made some locks a bit yellower than others. I’m glad it’s still noticeable after drying. I think it will make for a cool effect when put together in layers! I guess we will see.

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29th November 2016

The ravens of unresting thought

Yay! The time has come to test the silicon mould and the clay mix. First of all, I dampen the surface with water and glue. In my experience, doing this prevents the excessive drying of the clay on one side, and thus, chances of cracking will be very low. The layers cloth and newspaper absorb A LOT of moisture very quickly, it happens when painting with acrylics too. Also, I had to do it because I needed to smear the clay into the cloth around the borders so it blended well into the cloth area, instead of looking like a chunk of something smooth on top of something different, if you know what I mean.

I added the clay onto the forehead first, then the left side and then the right. After that I went ahead and tried the silicon mould. I gently placed it over the areas and pressed down firmly. I had to do some manual adjustments and fixes, as the “joints” were very obvious, and some parts didn’t take the texture because I didn’t press enough, but that didn’t take me long. Here are pictures of the process:

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29th October 2016

Derpy derp

So I put the mouth together, attached cheekbones, made the lower jaw’s cheeks extra puffy, glued the eyes in and topped them with eyebrows… and STILL. Still, she’s looking square, boring and derpy. Especially derpy. Anyway… I prepared the shield, drilled it and secured the neck to it, then proceeded to attach the head to it with wire, hot glue and lots of tape. I also added the chewing side muscles and made the throat look more natural.

Now, Anachromie has very large and long jowls hanging all the way to the base of the neck. To do this, I just cut a bunch of pieces of steel wire, shaped them and glued them in a way that made sense. It’s not 100% faithful to the original model, but I need to make it look nice enough and the base needs to fit within the oak shield, so there you go. I am curious to see how it will look when I cover it all with cloth! Are you too?

PD: Even after all of that, it’s still looking derpy. Gah!

 

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28th October 2016

Starting with the basics

Things happen. Sometimes they’re good things, sometimes they’re bad, but things keep on happening whether we like it or not. It’s up to us to decide how to take them. Each of us (regardless of species) is different, so we will perceive things in all sorts of diverse ways. For example, my printer has a life of its own and it decided not to work no matter what when I was trying to print the eyes for the next two dragons (yes, I have already decided what the next one will be like!). So instead of cursing and bashing it with a hammer, I grabbed some colour markers and decided to experiment!

I drew the outlines of the eyes using a 3H pencil and the cabochons (glass domes) as reference. Then I started working on the tones, from lighter to darker colours, and finally added the black slit pupil. I did the same for the other set of eyes I might be using on the next dragon, but we will see. After that, I put a blob of PVA glue on the eyes and pressed the glass against them really hard to get rid of air bubbles, then let it dry and cut them loose.

I still had teeth left over from the last batch, so I didn’t need to make new ones, but I did have to make the horns -obviously!-. Sorry I forgot to take pictures of the paper mache base pieces, but I made them the same way as usual (which I’ve shown in other posts, if you’re interested). I hollowed the pieces and cut the head open to make the jaws. The mouth in this case follows a pretty straight line… I hope it won’t look boring in the end. I made the horn cores with aluminium foil first, then conditioned the Fimo clay, wrapped it around them and shaped them properly. I baked the clay til it was ready and I decided to give it a bit of texture resembling the model (horizontal lines around the horns instead of vertical) by sanding them and making semi-deep scratches with some steel wool. To make the horns look more natural, I aged them using my beloved bitumen of Judea, thinned down with proper old school turpentine.

I must say, am NOT happy with the shape of the mouth at all. This dragon is supposed to have a very pronounced under-bite… and it does, but it makes her look insufferably derpy. We will see…

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23rd August 2016

Where was I?

Ah yes… Last time I had just glued the horns in. I covered all of that visible hot glue with strips of paper to mimic the skin of the base of each horn. Also, paint will stick muuuch better to the paper than on the glue. I also added the nostrils: just bits of aluminium foil and tape covered in fabric. They’re big and wide, I really like them. I also like how they’re in a “rested” position, in comparison with Kaltakess. It inspires wisdom, somehow.

I also added cloth scales to the neck (as usual) and let them dry. Next  step was paint -finally!-, so first, I had to protect the horns from the paint. For this, I just wrapped each horn in plastic film and secured it to the base with regular adhesive tape. Now, regarding colours, it was tricky. Danorethos is black and red. Black is a pain to paint properly because it’s very dark, so it tends to look really flat. So well, aside from adding red and orange tones randomly to the skin, I went for the effect of redness around softer areas of the face, like the base of the horns, nose and eyes… you know, where soft tissue tends to be. Then of course, I painted all of the scales black. It turned out really nice, although I’m afraid the black wash will cover some of those beautiful vermillion tones. You can see the pictures below… alas, it doesn’t look nearly as good as in person.

I will show the final result in the next post. I hope it turns out ok!

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19th August 2016

Looking alive

Last time I published a post, I had the core structure ready for the horns and the skin, and that’s exactly what I’ve done today. I safely wrapped the shield in plastic and tape and proceeded to cut strips of fabric and dip them in PVA glue. For the neck plates I used tightly-woven fabric that likes to stay rigid, and for the rest of the skin I used a more gauze-like kind of cotton. It formed bubbles, which made it all the more awesome, since this dragon is very lumpy, and also it’s going to be covered in clay scales that will smooth out the surface and hide imperfections. I also covered the ear membranes with fabric, as well as part of the back of the neck.

I could still see the red markings I made in my last post marking where the horns would go, so I  cut the base to adjust to the angle and glued them with hot glue. Now all there is is adding the clay bits, the fabric scales, nostrils and paint (he’s going to be black and red)… stay tuned for updates on the progress!

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13th August 2016

Kaltakess

Tadaaaa! These are pictures of the final product under proper lighting. As you can see, I changed my mind about the orange facial spots and I re-painted them grey. I black washed the whole thing, applied highlights with a dry brush, and gave it a thin coat of protective oil-based varnish that won’t mess up the acrylic paint. Sorry for the blurriness of some of the pictures, but you get the idea! I hope you like the results, and as usual, feel free to leave a comment with your thoughts on it!

 

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