The Arcane Dragonry

29th November 2016

The ravens of unresting thought

Yay! The time has come to test the silicon mould and the clay mix. First of all, I dampen the surface with water and glue. In my experience, doing this prevents the excessive drying of the clay on one side, and thus, chances of cracking will be very low. The layers cloth and newspaper absorb A LOT of moisture very quickly, it happens when painting with acrylics too. Also, I had to do it because I needed to smear the clay into the cloth around the borders so it blended well into the cloth area, instead of looking like a chunk of something smooth on top of something different, if you know what I mean.

I added the clay onto the forehead first, then the left side and then the right. After that I went ahead and tried the silicon mould. I gently placed it over the areas and pressed down firmly. I had to do some manual adjustments and fixes, as the “joints” were very obvious, and some parts didn’t take the texture because I didn’t press enough, but that didn’t take me long. Here are pictures of the process:

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28th November 2016

Only time

Who can say when the postman will bring the supplies you ordered? Only time. Humans seem to know their planet really well. They’ve made a lot of advances on the logistics field, but even still it usually takes a long time to transport something across an ocean. I’m told the waiting times now are nothing compared to what they used to be. I guess I believe that, it makes sense. This world is so immensely vast, I can’t fathom the concept of travel when they talk about these kind of distances. It would be most educational to go somewhere really, really far away. Not on a plane though. Apparently being a plane is like being stuck in a sort of limbo, where you have no idea of where you are in comparison to Earth and you don’t know how fast you are traveling either. It really doesn’t sound very fun… but I’m set! I need to set off on a trip (by land) one day.

My apologies for not posting anything in the last two weeks. I’ve been working on things, just not entirely related to Anachromie. Besides, I was waiting for some supplies. Now that I’ve got them though, I call tell you all about it! Basically, after finishing with the face as I showed you in my last post, I started a series of experiments to decide what would be the best thing to do on Anachromie’s neck. You see, normally I would add scales made out of cloth, but I had a feeling that wouldn’t work on her. I tried, and I was absolutely right. It looked dreadful (I’ll attach a picture down below). It looked as if her surface was split into separate parts, they didn’t blend into the design at all. So I removed them and started experimenting with textured fabric, textured papers and clays.

After a while, I came to the conclusion that clay was the best option. However, traditional or normal polymer clay wouldn’t work, since one does not simply stick a half-built dragon head in the oven. So I turned to air-dry clay. The problems I had to face with this type of clay were that firstly: it becomes brittle once dry, and secondly: it shrinks. A LOT. So I needed something that was strong enough so it wouldn’t detach, crack or crumble if dropped or struck hard while being transported, and also something that didn’t shrink a lot. I tested quite a few different clays and mixes that I bought from here and there, and they all shrunk so much, they warped and deformed their cloth/paper base support. But in the end I prevailed! I found “the right stuff”. It’s a mix of two different air-dry clays: Cloud Clay by Amaco and Fimo Air Light by Staedtler. (I’m not sponsored or anything, just saying). These two clays are very unique (especially Cloud Clay) and I’ll explain why.

Cloud Clay is described by the manufacturer as “Light as air, non-toxic Cloud Clay comes in 10 colors and is perfect for ages 3 and up. This soft, puffy, and pliable modeling material is fun to squeeze and model. Formulated to have more “stretch” than other brands, the fibers in this clay will not break apart as easily when pulled”. All of this is true, but there’s more to it. It’s nothing like any clay I’ve seen before. Imagine a big chunk of marshmallow that could stretch like chewing gum, and there you have it, that’s what it’s like. It’s extremely soft, stretchy and bouncy. But the best thing about it is that it doesn’t really shrink that much. It stays pretty much the same size it was when wet, and not only that… it also doesn’t harden like solid rock. Instead, it retains some of the softness and flexibility, so this makes it VERY resistant to shock damage. Just what I was looking for! The only bad thing is that it’s really bad for details. When you push it down, it bounces back up a little (kind of like a marshmallow), but that’s when the other clay comes in!

Regarding Fimo Air Light, well… this one is more like traditional air-dry clays. The texture feels a bit different, crumbly and a bit irregular (I found that it needs a lot of kneading to be smooth). But it’s very light and it’s designed so the shrinkage is minimised. It’s supposed to shrink only 7%, compared to the normal 15% or so. As with any other regular air-dry clay, you need to keep it moist while you work or it will begin to harden up irreversibly.

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Here you can see both clays before I mixed them. It’s two parts Fimo, one part Cloud Clay (ish). Also, here’s the picture I promised of Anachromie with scales. See how they don’t work? Normally, because you can divide dragon parts into head and neck (separated by the ear membranes), and then the plates on the lower neck, everything falls into place. But Anachromie is different. She doesn’t have neither neck plates nor ears, so it’s all part of one big thing, and it doesn’t look right if only a part of it has scales. But don’t worry, this it going to work! I will soon update you on the progress.

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5th November 2016

Taking the dragon by the horns

This morning the postman dropped off a rather large junkmail flyer. When I picked it up, that feeling of thin, rough paper inspired me to start working on the back plates. As I said I would do last time, I covered all of them with paper mache. Notice in the pictures how I added the top plate that goes over the forehead. I made that with air-dry clay. The surface smooth as it could be, but I still gave it a layer of paper mache to match all of the surfaces. Once dry, I confirmed it was just what it needed!

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Now, regarding the face… Gosh. The face. It is fixed now. Not that I’m 100% happy with it, but I think it’s decent enough. I’m sorry I didn’t take pictures of the process to modify the shape, but I’ll explain. Basically, what I did was dampen the whole mouth over night by covering it with wet towels. In the morning, all of the materials were soft and moldable, so I stretched the mouth open by putting a long wooden stick inside, and then warped the shape of both jaws into a more natural way by putting strong rubber bands in different places of the mouth. I cut a few pieces of 3mm steel wire and shaped them to size so it wouldn’t deform in places I didn’t want it to. Think of those as braces. Then of course, I let it dry up, and to my surprise, it looked good! I wasn’t sure it would work at all, but it did. I don’t have exact pictures to show you a before/after, but you have to trust me, it was awful before.

Something I realised once it was dry, was that the lips were too full. I filled them up with bits of cloth (as I normally do) to make them look a bit fuller, but in this case it didn’t look right… it just didn’t. This dragon is smooth and sleek, and it needed flatter lips. So well, instead of dampen up the nose to fix it, I made all of the face wet again and ripped off both the nose and the lips. I cut, refolded and reshaped everything until it looked alright and then I let it air. Check the results below… what do you think?

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2nd November 2016

Trial and error

Experiments. This particular dragon is a big experiment on its own, which is very exciting actually. As you can see, I added the skin with cloth mache (cloth dipped in PVA glue). I must say though, if the face was looking derpy before adding the skin, now it’s like twice as bad. The nose is hideous, but the lips are twice as bad… I definitely need to do something about them. Anyway, I decided to begin working on the back plates. First, I drew where they would go with a marker. Then I just cut exactly six pieces of cardboard in slightly incremental length and width, and bent them until I was satisfied with them. I proceeded to use hot glue to secure them to the dragon, and made the top piece that goes on the forehead with air-dry clay.

While the clay dried up, I made an experimental mix of paper clay consisting of toilet tissue, water, all purpose ready-mix filler, simple flour and PVA glue. With this paste, I added some volume to the ends of each back plate and let it dry.

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I’ll tell you something… that paper clay dries hard. VERY hard. And unfortunately, very irregular as well. Even though I tried to even the surface as much as possible, in the end I decided to give it a few layers of top quality shellac-based primer/sealer to ease those imperfections.

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It helped, but not a lot. So I decided to pull out the Dremel (rotary tool) and gave it a gooooooood smoothing. In the end it looked much better, but not perfect. I think I’ll cover everything with paper mache. By the way if you noticed how Anachromie is now missing her nose and her mouth looks different… don’t worry, I’ll explain everything in the next post!

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29th October 2016

Derpy derp

So I put the mouth together, attached cheekbones, made the lower jaw’s cheeks extra puffy, glued the eyes in and topped them with eyebrows… and STILL. Still, she’s looking square, boring and derpy. Especially derpy. Anyway… I prepared the shield, drilled it and secured the neck to it, then proceeded to attach the head to it with wire, hot glue and lots of tape. I also added the chewing side muscles and made the throat look more natural.

Now, Anachromie has very large and long jowls hanging all the way to the base of the neck. To do this, I just cut a bunch of pieces of steel wire, shaped them and glued them in a way that made sense. It’s not 100% faithful to the original model, but I need to make it look nice enough and the base needs to fit within the oak shield, so there you go. I am curious to see how it will look when I cover it all with cloth! Are you too?

PD: Even after all of that, it’s still looking derpy. Gah!

 

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23rd August 2016

Where was I?

Ah yes… Last time I had just glued the horns in. I covered all of that visible hot glue with strips of paper to mimic the skin of the base of each horn. Also, paint will stick muuuch better to the paper than on the glue. I also added the nostrils: just bits of aluminium foil and tape covered in fabric. They’re big and wide, I really like them. I also like how they’re in a “rested” position, in comparison with Kaltakess. It inspires wisdom, somehow.

I also added cloth scales to the neck (as usual) and let them dry. Next  step was paint -finally!-, so first, I had to protect the horns from the paint. For this, I just wrapped each horn in plastic film and secured it to the base with regular adhesive tape. Now, regarding colours, it was tricky. Danorethos is black and red. Black is a pain to paint properly because it’s very dark, so it tends to look really flat. So well, aside from adding red and orange tones randomly to the skin, I went for the effect of redness around softer areas of the face, like the base of the horns, nose and eyes… you know, where soft tissue tends to be. Then of course, I painted all of the scales black. It turned out really nice, although I’m afraid the black wash will cover some of those beautiful vermillion tones. You can see the pictures below… alas, it doesn’t look nearly as good as in person.

I will show the final result in the next post. I hope it turns out ok!

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13th August 2016

Kaltakess

Tadaaaa! These are pictures of the final product under proper lighting. As you can see, I changed my mind about the orange facial spots and I re-painted them grey. I black washed the whole thing, applied highlights with a dry brush, and gave it a thin coat of protective oil-based varnish that won’t mess up the acrylic paint. Sorry for the blurriness of some of the pictures, but you get the idea! I hope you like the results, and as usual, feel free to leave a comment with your thoughts on it!

 

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7th August 2016

Binding together

Binding things together can be a challenge sometimes. It happens the same with all creatures. Sometimes two individuals will have to cooperate to succeed, whether they like it or not. Humans are a bit odd when it comes to do this kind of thing. How can it be -according to them- so challenging at times? They are the same species, they can talk to each other and they are social animals, so they are meant to work together. It sounds so easy to me, but maybe I just can’t understand. I don’t think they know how difficult it is for Dragonkin to cooperate with each other. There are so many kinds! Some of them are not the brightest, and some of them are so intelligent they can even communicate telepathically. They all have different interests, they can be dangerous and a lot of them are (or choose to be) solitary creatures. They may not even have the same physiognomy, being small or colossal, having wings or not, possessing extrasensory powers, being able to use magic or not… and the list goes on. And yet, you humans wage war and fight so much more often than us.

I still have a lot to learn.

Today I’m showing you how I bound all of the different pieces together to make something greater. For this, I used mostly tape and hot glue. I played around with the mouth pieces until they reached a position I was happy with, and glued them enough just to see the result without having to hold it with my hands. After a few adjustments, I glued it permanently and proceed to do the same process again, this time attaching it to the neck.

Now it was time to make all of that plainness go away by adding some features to the base. I started by the horns. Not all dragons have horns, but I personally love horns so much, I don’t think I’d ever be satisfied if I made a dragon head without horns! (The few hornless dragons I know are not remarkable enough to honour them with a trophy anyway). To do this, I shaped a bunch of aluminium foil into long, thin cones for the big horns, and smaller cones for the horns on the nose and chin. And then… TAPE! In Dan Reeder’s book, he spoke about how he loves tape so much, he would marry it if he weren’t already married to another human. I can understand that.

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I added a few more features (note the nostrils, nose bridge, and later on, cheeks), as well as a steel wire running along the horns as an outer line. I taped everything together and continued to add features, including the eyes. Once again, I apologise for the high saturation of the pictures, I will get a new camera soon -hopefully-.

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